Textiles of Southern India

15 Days

Since the days of the Roman Empire, South Indian textile artisans have been weaving, painting, dyeing, and embellishing sumptuous textiles for the courts of kings and the markets of the world. Today, the Indian textile industry is one of the largest in the world, based in part on the quality of Indian cotton grown on the Deccan lava plateau. Indian textile sectors include cotton, silk and woolen textiles, ready-made garments, and jute and coir. Hand-crafted textiles continue to play an important role in daily life and are often associated with specific villages, where family life and the village economy is centered on traditional textile production. The focus of this tour is on these textile traditions and the textile villages where these fabrics are still produced by hand.

Most Indian textile traditions are centuries old, as are the villages, cities, and architectural sites that give them context. Expect cobbled streets, well-worn stairs, narrow alley-ways, and the occasional Indian toilet. We may walk some distances from the bus, sit on the ground, and make demands on knee and hip joints. In exchange, we will see the artisans at their looms, in their homes, and in action. All meals are provided, except four, when you will be given the opportunity to explore on your own. Restaurant suggestions will be provided.

Overview

Trace the trail of Indian Madras Plaids from Chennai (Madras) to their origin in the village of Chirala

o Dakshinachitra, the Williamsburg of South India

o Kanchipuram sari weaving

o Kalamakari painting and printing

o Hyderabad bangle bazaar

o Telia Rumal and Poochampally double ikats

o Mahatma Gandhi’s Sabarmati Ashram

o Calico Museum of Textiles

o Mata-Ni-Pachedi painted temple hangings

o Patan Patola double ikat weaving

Itinerary

• Welcome lunch followed by a trip to FabIndia to see how handloomed textiles are marketed to contemporary Indian consumers
• High tea at Amethyst, a heritage site, and boutiques featuring India’s hottest designers
• Evening aarti, or Hindu prayers, at the Kapaleswarar Temple, with traditional textiles in use

Day 2 :
Chennai

As Chennai was the capital of the colonial Madras Presidency and largest trading port on the Bay of Bengal.
• A morning city tour for historical context and importance of the city to the textile trade
• After lunch, visit the Washermenpet district and exporters of Indian Madras Plaids, including antique pattern books used by West African customers and Indian weavers alike to select and duplicate weaving patterns cherished for generations. (Indian Madras Plaids has several other names, such as Real Madras Handkerchief, RMHK, and George cloth. It has been traded out of the Port of Madras/Chennai to England, West Africa, and the Americas for over 200 years.)
• Get inputs on the rich history and variety of South Indian textiles, what they mean, and how they are used in the twenty-first century

Day 3 :
Chennai

• Visit an exporter
• Visit Co-op-Tex and Cotton Street, formal and informal retail sources of cotton textiles.
• Visit Weaver’s Service Center, the research and outreach arm of the Handloom Export Promotion Council.
• Kalakshetra Foundation and Craft Education and Research Center – kalamakari fabric painting and recital by classical dance and music students
• Dinner on your own.

• Mahabalipuram is an ancient sea port, with fabulous sculpture and architecture characteristic of South India’s Dravidian heritage. The sculptures depict scenes from everyday life and set the context for the role of textiles in South Indian society.
• Dakshinachitra is the Williamsburg of South India – a living heritage museum that presents housing and craft traditions typical of South India over 200 years. Artisans work at traditional professions, including weaving and block printing.

Day trip to Kanchipuram, famous for its saris woven with gold and silk thread, as well as for its temples dating from the Chola empire (200 BCE).
• Dinner on your own.
• Night train to Vijayawada

• Kalamkari painting and printing with vegetable dyes
• Godavari River where kalamakari is washed and dried

• Cotton yarns are dyed, rice-starched, and woven by hand based on West African specs.
• See yarn-winding, in-home pit looms, and loom adaptations for foreign markets.
• Variations of RMHK called Fancies use a dobby technique and rayon and Lurex yarns.

• Morning trip to Undavalli Cave Temples, with shrines to Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva – a context for Indian textile motifs
• Travel to Hyderabad.

Day 9 :
Hyderabad

• Hyderabad city tour, including the restored Chowmalla Palace with exhibits of dress and interior textiles in historical context
• Explore the famous bangle bazaar with its countless shops of glass and lacquer bangles.
• Dinner on your own.

• Telia Rumal – intricate double ikat in cotton set with oil, for the Middle East market, related to RMHK
• Silk double-ikat saris and yardage for the domestic Indian market
• Hands-on at Creative Bee, a craft foundation, fashion house, and design studio dedicated to maintaining ancient weaving skills through contemporary design. Founded by TSA member Bina Rao.

• Mahatma Gandhi’s Sabarmati Ashram, his spinning wheel, and khadi cloth
• Sidi Bashir Mosque, a fine example of Mughal architecture
• Dinner on your own.

Day 12 :
Ahmedabad

• Calico Museum of Textiles, the premier textile museum in India, houses fabulous antique and modern textiles, rare tapestries, and historic dress.
• National Institute of Design, recognized for its course offerings in textile, apparel, and lifestyle design, among other fields
• Visit the Bandej Shop owned by Archana Shah and the Gallery Gufa run by Bibi Doshi, who worked with Corbusier, see one of Le Corbusier’s looms.

Day 13 :
Patan

• Visit the Sun Temple at Modhera, famous for its magnificent carvings, and dedicated to the sun god, Surya.
• See Patan Patola double ikat weaving.
• Lunch with the Salvi family, master weavers of Patan Patola.
• Visit Patan step well, a water storage system using steps to reach the water, regardless of water level; step wells were often the sites of Caravan Sarais, often covered, and so are of architectural interest.

Day 14 :

• Morning visit with painters of Mata-Ni-Pachedi temple hangings; instead of one cloth hanging behind an icon, four or five hangings together create a shrine, perfect for the nomadic Waghari people.
• Afternoon on your own
• Evening farewell dinner

• Day free for shopping, a return to the Calico, travel to Mumbai for onward journey home.

Includes

  • Hotel on twin sharing basis for 13 nights,
  • o Air-conditioned sleeper-class train from Chennai to Vijayawada
  • o All meals, except four dinners
  • o All arrival and departure transfers
  • o Domestic airfare
  • o Surface transportation by air-conditioned coach
  • o English speaking local guide
  • o All one time monument entrance fees as per itinerary
  • o Donation to weavers
  • o Mineral water on the coach

Excludes

  • International airfare
  • o Passport and Indian visa charges
  • o Travel insurance
  • o Four meals – suggestions will be provided
  • o Personal incidentals – telephone, internet, laundry, table drinks, alcohol
  • o Photography fees – at some historic sites, an additional fee is charged for taking pictures